Where (not) to eat street food in Istanbul: the balık ekmek stalls in Eminönü.

Last visit: June 2025

My rating: 5/10

Price: €/€€€€€

Cuisine: simple street food (balık ekmek)

The floating stalls of Eminönü — the ones grilling the famous balık ekmek, Istanbul’s iconic fish sandwich — are one of those experiences that sooner or later everyone tries. And they do have their charm: the ornate boats, the smoke rising from the grill, the constant flow of people — locals and tourists alike — grabbing a quick bite before catching the ferry. The atmosphere is lively, almost theatrical, and worth a stop on its own.

The sandwich itself, however, is another story. It isn’t bad, of course; it’s simply not memorable. A grilled mackerel fillet, white bread, a bit of lettuce and onion: all very honest, very straightforward, but also rather basic and a little dry. And pairing it with a glass of tursu suyu — the pickled-vegetable brine traditionally served as a drink with the sandwich — doesn’t exactly improve the overall palatability. This is street food that makes no claims, aspires to no revelations: it feeds you, keeps you company while you watch the boat traffic on the Golden Horn, and then quietly steps aside.

And yes, unlike other tourist traps in the city, locals really do come here: students, workers, commuters grabbing a quick lunch, or simply following habit. In a way, that’s its greatest virtue — a small slice of everyday Istanbul, easily accessible.

In conclusion: if you’re looking for an unforgettable culinary experience, look elsewhere. But if you want a simple, popular, unpretentious bite in one of the most dynamic corners of the city, then a balık ekmek in Eminönü is a pleasant pause — no surprises, but no real disappointments either.