Travel
Tharros (Sardinia): The City That Is Almost Entirely Somewhere Else
Ruins by the sea and columns against the blue: everything a brochure wants. But most of what Tharros once held is scattered...
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Travel
Travel
Language in Sardinia: An Island That Speaks for Itself
Call Sardinian a dialect and you will start a fight, and for once the linguists side with the locals. One island, many...
Art
THE RANT. Coin Operated Timers, or the Church in the Contactless Age
In the age of contactless payments, the Church still demands one-euro coins to light up its Caravaggios with its coin operated timers....
Travel
The Gulf of Orosei: The Coastline Italy Forgot to Ruin
Thirty kilometres of Jurassic limestone dropping straight into the sea, no roads, no buildings, and beaches reachable only by boat or on...
Travel
The La Maddalena Archipelago: Sixty Islands Between Sardinia and the End of the World
Sixty islands of three-hundred-million-year-old granite, water so clear it looks engineered, and a beach that a man from Modena spent thirty-two years...
Travel
The Dunes of Piscinas: The Desert the Wind Keeps Rewriting
Sardinia's "little Sahara" is really a living coastal dune system, still reshaped by the mistral, fronting a seven-kilometre beach and backed by...
Travel
The Magnalonga di Dorgali (Sardinia): Walking, Eating, and Reading a Landscape
A food-and-wine walk through the Supramonte: nine stops, centuries-old olive groves, prehistoric fairy houses carved into the rock, dozens of suckling pigs...
Travel
Gorropu Gorge (Sardinia): Italy’s Deepest Canyon, and How to Actually Tackle It
Walls over 500 metres high, a vanished seabed full of fossils, and a flower that grows almost nowhere else. Gorropu is one...
Travel
The Spanish Riding School: Vienna’s Lipizzaners, and the Question Underneath the Spectacle
Grown men in tailcoats persuade very expensive white horses to hop, and people have been paying to watch for four and a...
Travel
Asinara (Sardinia): The Island That Was a Prison, and So Stayed Intact
For over a century Asinara was a place of confinement: a leper hospital, a POW camp, the maximum-security prison that held Totò...
Food
Girotonno (Carloforte, Sardinia): a local tuna fair and a missed opportunity
A wasted opportunity dressed up as a festival. Carloforte sits on an extraordinary fish, a unique Ligurian-in-Sardinia history, and one of the...
Food
Aurea Osteria Contemporanea, Cagliari. I have never written a review this enthusiastic.
A Cagliari seafood omakase where poor fish becomes extraordinary, local ingredients are used with genuine passion and intelligence, and sixty euros buys...