Five minutes from Termini, behind an anonymous side door, a ninth-century pope who may or may not have ordered two murders built...
The most perfect building of antiquity opens with a lie spelled out in bronze. The record-breaking dome, the oculus and the rain,...
For five hundred years the Deposition of Santa Felicita could only be seen through bars, one coin at a time. In Rome...
Ten million people a year come to the Trevi Fountain, and most of them turn their backs on it to throw a...
I came home from Tokyo the first time nursing one intolerable gap: I hadn't seen the National Museum. So I went back,...
Twenty rooms, the highest concentration of Bernini sculpture in the world, six Caravaggios and a building that counts as one of the...
Six million visitors a year march through the Vatican Museums towards the Sistine Chapel and miss almost everything else. Here is an...
The Pontormo Rome exhibition opens in October. Here is a better use of the wait than counting down days: thirteen of his...
Audio guides: secondhand information for people who'd rather press play than open a book. A love letter to art disguised as a...
Flâneur: an itinerary engine for people who travel because of the art. Eleven cities, 22,000 catalogued works, three traveller profiles, a thousand...