Travel
Wild Sardinia: Nature, Stone, Wind and Scrub
Forget the Maldives caption. Sardinia's real beauty is older and harder than its beaches: a maquis you smell before you see it,...
Travel
The Complete Guide to Trains in Italy
A no-nonsense guide to trains in Italy for foreign travelers: Trenitalia vs Italo, how to book, ticket validation, strikes, unwritten rules, and...
Travel
Masua and Porto Flavia (Sardinia): The Port Carved Into the Cliff
A loading port carved into a sea cliff in the 1920s, facing the tallest stack in the Mediterranean, with a beach of...
Travel
Tharros (Sardinia): The City That Is Almost Entirely Somewhere Else
Ruins by the sea and columns against the blue: everything a brochure wants. But most of what Tharros once held is scattered...
Travel
Language in Sardinia: An Island That Speaks for Itself
Call Sardinian a dialect and you will start a fight, and for once the linguists side with the locals. One island, many...
Art
THE RANT. Coin Operated Timers, or the Church in the Contactless Age
In the age of contactless payments, the Church still demands one-euro coins to light up its Caravaggios with its coin operated timers....
Travel
The Gulf of Orosei: The Coastline Italy Forgot to Ruin
Thirty kilometres of Jurassic limestone dropping straight into the sea, no roads, no buildings, and beaches reachable only by boat or on...
Travel
The La Maddalena Archipelago: Sixty Islands Between Sardinia and the End of the World
Sixty islands of three-hundred-million-year-old granite, water so clear it looks engineered, and a beach that a man from Modena spent thirty-two years...
Travel
The Dunes of Piscinas: The Desert the Wind Keeps Rewriting
Sardinia's "little Sahara" is really a living coastal dune system, still reshaped by the mistral, fronting a seven-kilometre beach and backed by...
Travel
The Magnalonga di Dorgali (Sardinia): Walking, Eating, and Reading a Landscape
A food-and-wine walk through the Supramonte: nine stops, centuries-old olive groves, prehistoric fairy houses carved into the rock, dozens of suckling pigs...