Travel
Wild Sardinia: Nature, Stone, Wind and Scrub
Forget the Maldives caption. Sardinia's real beauty is older and harder than its beaches: a maquis you smell before you see it,...
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Masua and Porto Flavia (Sardinia): The Port Carved Into the Cliff
A loading port carved into a sea cliff in the 1920s, facing the tallest stack in the Mediterranean, with a beach of...
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Tharros (Sardinia): The City That Is Almost Entirely Somewhere Else
Ruins by the sea and columns against the blue: everything a brochure wants. But most of what Tharros once held is scattered...
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Language in Sardinia: An Island That Speaks for Itself
Call Sardinian a dialect and you will start a fight, and for once the linguists side with the locals. One island, many...
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The Gulf of Orosei: The Coastline Italy Forgot to Ruin
Thirty kilometres of Jurassic limestone dropping straight into the sea, no roads, no buildings, and beaches reachable only by boat or on...
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The La Maddalena Archipelago: Sixty Islands Between Sardinia and the End of the World
Sixty islands of three-hundred-million-year-old granite, water so clear it looks engineered, and a beach that a man from Modena spent thirty-two years...
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The Dunes of Piscinas: The Desert the Wind Keeps Rewriting
Sardinia's "little Sahara" is really a living coastal dune system, still reshaped by the mistral, fronting a seven-kilometre beach and backed by...
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The Magnalonga di Dorgali (Sardinia): Walking, Eating, and Reading a Landscape
A food-and-wine walk through the Supramonte: nine stops, centuries-old olive groves, prehistoric fairy houses carved into the rock, dozens of suckling pigs...
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Gorropu Gorge (Sardinia): Italy’s Deepest Canyon, and How to Actually Tackle It
Walls over 500 metres high, a vanished seabed full of fossils, and a flower that grows almost nowhere else. Gorropu is one...
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Asinara (Sardinia): The Island That Was a Prison, and So Stayed Intact
For over a century Asinara was a place of confinement: a leper hospital, a POW camp, the maximum-security prison that held Totò...