Art
The Pantheon: Nineteen Centuries Under a Hole in the Roof
The most perfect building of antiquity opens with a lie spelled out in bronze. The record-breaking dome, the oculus and the rain,...
Art
Pontormo at the Scuderie del Quirinale in Rome: the Exhibition That Deserves a Nobel Prize (Review)
For five hundred years the Deposition of Santa Felicita could only be seen through bars, one coin at a time. In Rome...
Art
The Trevi Fountain: Rome’s Most Photographed Masterpiece, and the Hardest One to Actually See
Ten million people a year come to the Trevi Fountain, and most of them turn their backs on it to throw a...
Art
The Borghese Gallery: a complete guide. What to see, what can fairly be criticised, and why the building is worth as much as the art
Twenty rooms, the highest concentration of Bernini sculpture in the world, six Caravaggios and a building that counts as one of the...
Food
Where to Eat in Naples: Osteria Mattonella
A classic Neapolitan osteria reached only by crossing the Pallonetto Santa Lucia past house-arrest checks and bullet-riddled murals. Inside: spaghetti alla Luciana...
Travel
Montale Lounge Malpensa (MXP) airport (Terminal 1, Area B): panoramic view, average experience
A honest review of the Montale lounge at the Malpensa Airport (MXP) in Milan
Travel
Calcio Storico Fiorentino: A Spectator’s Day Inside Florence’s Most Brutal Tradition
Once a year Florence licenses its oldest instinct. Between a Renaissance procession of staggering beauty and a sand pitch where twenty-seven men...
Travel
Wild Sardinia: Nature, Stone, Wind and Scrub
Forget the Maldives caption. Sardinia's real beauty is older and harder than its beaches: a maquis you smell before you see it,...
Travel
The Complete Guide to Trains in Italy
A no-nonsense guide to trains in Italy for foreign travelers: Trenitalia vs Italo, how to book, ticket validation, strikes, unwritten rules, and...
Travel
Masua and Porto Flavia (Sardinia): The Port Carved Into the Cliff
A loading port carved into a sea cliff in the 1920s, facing the tallest stack in the Mediterranean, with a beach of...