Five minutes from Termini, behind an anonymous side door, a ninth-century pope who may or may not have ordered two murders built...
A tasteful trattoria near Spaccanapoli: fried paccheri that surprise, solid Neapolitan classics, slow but warm service. La Locanda del Gesù Vecchio in...
Lounges, insurance, miles and a tax-deductible fee: on paper the Italian Amex Platinum pays for itself. Then I made one large payment,...
The most perfect building of antiquity opens with a lie spelled out in bronze. The record-breaking dome, the oculus and the rain,...
The most hyped airport lounge in the world, seen briefly and honestly: striking architecture, a water feature, tropical views, but food and...
For five hundred years the Deposition of Santa Felicita could only be seen through bars, one coin at a time. In Rome...
Ten million people a year come to the Trevi Fountain, and most of them turn their backs on it to throw a...
A review of the Marco Polo Club lounge at the Marco Polo airport in Venice (VCE)
I came home from Tokyo the first time nursing one intolerable gap: I hadn't seen the National Museum. So I went back,...
Twenty rooms, the highest concentration of Bernini sculpture in the world, six Caravaggios and a building that counts as one of the...