Twenty rooms, the highest concentration of Bernini sculpture in the world, six Caravaggios and a building that counts as one of the...
Six million visitors a year march through the Vatican Museums towards the Sistine Chapel and miss almost everything else. Here is an...
The Pontormo Rome exhibition opens in October. Here is a better use of the wait than counting down days: thirteen of his...
Flâneur: an itinerary engine for people who travel because of the art. Eleven cities, 22,000 catalogued works, three traveller profiles, a thousand...
Breakfast at LUNA by Faro in Rome: outstanding specialty coffee, excellent croissants and brunch, wrapped in a cosmic manifesto of conscious dining.
Stand before Bernini's David at the Borghese Gallery and see how a 23-year-old redefined sculpture, capturing the split second before the stone...
Is Checco er Carettiere worth visiting? See the Trastevere legend where Leone, De Niro and García Márquez dined, and decide if it...
Tonnarelli divine, Rome forgiven, then condemned; tripe redeems, tiramisù surprises; you enter diner, exit believer, slightly ashamed, very full, permanently converted.
Hosteria Grappolo d'Oro, Rome: honest Roman cooking near Campo de' Fiori, no tourist traps. Solid but forgettable; read the full review before...
A boy from Naples, a block of marble, and an idea that should have been impossible. Bernini